Grow Guide 101 for Beginners

Step 1 of this grow guide which is of course selecting the location of your grow. So, the first step to that is deciding are we going to be doing an indoor grow or an outdoor grow? Now if you do decide to do outdoor a highly recommend going with a greenhouse because that is going to be the best way to prevent any issues such as pests or mold from getting on the plants and messing up your yields. Now you will also want to have a place that is going to have a lot of direct sunlight for that grow. Because in a greenhouse, obviously you can have supplemental lighting hanging up in there by having grow lights in the tent.  

But you want to be mainly using that Sun, so be sure to pick an area that is outside and direct sunlight for most of the day, if you don't have that then I would highly suggest and recommend growing indoors.  Now the other reason I really like indoors is I feel I can get better quality results. And here is actually a current grow that I'm doing right now, a photoperiod grow. But I find it is a lot easier to maintain your plants because you do not have to counteract the weather and make sure that the conditions are always on point inside the greenhouse. With an indoor tent, that is not affected because you are inside the house so the temperature is pretty constant.  

So, you so you can pretty much just automate and set up everything and it really a hassle-free way of growing. Now Outdoors is a really great way to grow in this very environmentally friendly, it is just a little more challenging to get that top-quality product. So there is one of my grows and then in this tent I've actually got my other Indoor grow which is my mother plant and cloning how to grow Series. So this one I was teaching how to not only grow a mother plant but then how to grow her as well. And then once we cloned her, we grew those plants into a decent-size plant and now we are flowering them all together.  

So that is step 1 on the guide, deciding whether you want to grow indoors or Outdoors. Again my recommendation is in door because it is going to be easier and a lot of people think of outdoor in a greenhouse will be cheaper. And it is if you are just going one hundred percent natural you know no supplemental lighting or any thing like that. But if you are somewhere where you are going to need fans or maybe a heater inside. It can get pretty costly trying to maintain ideal temperatures and conditions in that Greenhouse. So that is the first thing to think about. 

All right, now we are inside upstairs in my bedroom for step 2 on the grow guide. And that is do you have to do a stealth grow or can you be open about it. So I am going to be showing you guys in this step, how to be stealth for those of you who have to be secretive and hidden about it. Now if you do have to be stealth it is a good idea to grow indoors. It can be done outside in a greenhouse if you can hide it along the side of your house. Or if you have a large property, but at night especially if you are using supplemental lighting, it is going to be pretty obvious. So here I've got my indoor grow setup, it is a stealth grow in my closet and let me just show you guys really quickSo closets work really well as well as armoires and other sorts of big furniture that you are not using and can hard stuff inside of. 

But anyways, you will see I've got over here and nice Little Seedling and clone tent for getting the lady started.  And then I've got my nice 2X4 vegetation tent right here. So let me just open that up really quickly you'll see I have some nice Gorilla Glue Auto flowers growing here at the moment. We just started then a few days ago, so you can see they are still pretty small and in that seedling, early early seedling stage. Just popped up above ground like a day or two ago, so this is the stealth grow. There are a few components with being stealth with the grow. First off, and having your grow hidden in a location that is low traffic and isn't going to have a lot of people coming in and out.  

You don't want to have it out in the open, so  so that is why I suggest a closet or some sort of furniture that you can put it inside of. Obviously it's going to have to be a larger piece for that. But one of the biggest components about being stealth is about who you tell. So if you tell a bunch of your friends and family and stuff like that, it is going to be a little more easy for people to find out about it. We're if you just keep it a secret to yourself, it'll be a lot easier to keep it a secret. So first step, finding that location you can hide it in. Second Step, keeping the smell under control as well as the noise.  

So you're going to want to use appliances that are low wattage and aren't super loud or powerful so that you cannot hear them once the closet is all closed up. And then you will also want to make sure that you have a carbon filter system  set up in here so that you can keep that smell down. So that is going to be the biggest thing or biggest indicator giving you away is if you have that smell of nice bud just billowing out of your tent. It's going to be pretty obvious what's going on, so Step 2 of the official GreenBox Grown Grow guide, is how to keep you're set up stealth if need be. 

Now step 3 is all about selecting the genetics you are going to be growing with, so you are going to want to decide if first off will you be doing a photoperiod grow, or will you be doing autoflowers. Now I always recommend for a beginner grow or first-timer to  start off with Autoflower, and I'm just going to head over to our seed banks page right here so I can show you more details on that. But autoflowers definitely recommended for a beginner because it takes less knowledge or effort and it is a lot easier to maintain and get good results from. So once you have selected whether or not to do that, you will want to choose a strain. 

So I am not staying photoperiods are impossible to grow it's just easier to do an Autoflower. If you are feeling up for the challenge you can definitely try out your first time photoperiod, it is very doable, you just want to make sure you do your research first. Now next you are going to want to decide if you are going to be doing a high THC or CBD strain. And you can choose either one, they are both available when it comes to seed selections. I highly recommend checking out Growers choice seeds if you are looking for some high-cbd. But anyways once you have done that, all you have to do is decide on your strain and you are good to go. 

So for example right now I've got a Limoncello Haze grow going, And those seeds came from Amsterdam marijuana seeds, aka AMS. And that was the mother plant in Cologne series, those were the Limoncello Haze. And then the other tent in the garage there we're actually some seeds from NukeHeads which I don't have listed here, but that was the Grape Ape, Skittles, as well as the Pineapple Chunk in there. And then upstairs you guys saw I have here from Growers Choice seeds, I have some Gorilla Glue AutoflowerSo the two downstairs grows were Photoperiod, and then the one up here was an Autoflower.   

So that sums up step 3 of this grow guide, and again you want to select if you are doing an auto or photoperiod grow. High THC or high CBD, and then again which strain you want to grow. Now a lot of these breeders do offer several variations of all the strange. So for example if you want a high CBD Blue Dream strain let's say, they do have that, as well as high THC blue dream and then of course you could get blue dream photoperiod, as well as Blue Dream Autoflower seeds. So lots of variations and options out there, you just need to know which pages to look at. and then again I have my list here of recommended seed banks all of which are very reputable and have great genetics! 

Now step 4 on the grow guide is going to be selecting the supplies you are going to be growing with, and that is why I had the other steps before this one because a lot of the supplies you will need are going to change based on whether you are doing an indoor or an outdoor grow. As well as Autoflower or Photoperiod plants as the pot sizes are going to change as well as other things you're going to need. So I've got starter kits here that are all inclusive in the have everything you need from start to harvest. But let me just go over the quick basics of what you will need to really get your cannabis grow started. And again these are the bare minimums. 

Now the Deluxe series as well as the mini start series does come with the kind of bare minimum setup. but anyways, you are going to be needing of course if you're growing indoors your tent, or Outdoors you'll need your Greenhouse. You are going to need a grow light of course and I always recommend at least 600 watts per plant that you are growing just so you can get a full sized properly developed plant. After that you'll want to have a fan or two to have good circulation and then you are going to need your pots as well as soil. Now for beginners I really recommend the fox farm ocean forest soil, because it is very easy to work with and then also since it is soil. You are not going to have to pH your nutrients or water feedings.  

So you will not have to mess around with a pH pen or anything like that.  Now for nutrients I recommend a basic Trio such as the General Hydroponics or the fox farm Trio. Even the advanced nutrients Trio is good. And then I always recommend on top of that a bottle of Cal Mag. So once you've got your pots, which I recommend starting with at least fabric pots is that is going to be much better than plastic especially when growing Outdoors. Plastic pots Outdoors don't work too well because if they get direct sunlight they heat up really well or really hot. So that can mess up that root zone. 

So you will need your tent, your pots, as well as your growing medium which is the soil, you will want your nutrients, and then the light as well as some fans For circulation. And that is really the bare minimum basic supplies that you will need to get away with for one successful Harvest.  Now for harvesting the plants you are going to want mason jars for the curing process as well as string for hanging them. And a trichome scope is really important for checking those trichomes so you know when they are ready for Harvest.  

So just something to consider, and we do have several different starter kits available, ranging from different size grow setups to indoor versus outdoor, we do have Greenhouse setups, and then you will see like appear we have some deep water culture setup as well. So definitely worth checking these out, a lot of fun and cool stuff here to help get your cannabis grow started! 

Alright so we are back here 4 step 5 on this grow guide, and this is an important one because this is the start of the germination period. So you are going to take your seeds and soak them in a glass of water for 18 hours and then you are going to want to place them into a paper towel so they can soak for a few days and get that Taproot going. So that is what I am demonstrating here and these videos, and that is really if you are starting from seed. If you are starting from clone, it is going to be a little different of a process. And once you got that Taproot that is about a half inch in length, like these ones here, you  are ready to transplant or plant the seed to get it growing. 

So here I am going to be planting into some rapid rooters, and then you will see here they popped up in the humidity Dome just a few days later. So here is a couple day old seedling right here, in this days you're going to want temperature to be around 75 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit, so it'll be a little warmer.  

And then of course humidity has to be pretty high so that is why I have them in the dome, and I am also missing them several times throughout the day, so that is important as well.  In the seedling stage you will see once you have four to five nodes, they will be ready for their first nutrient feeding. It's got to be a light one of course and then once they get about 6 notes, that is when they will be ready to be transplanted to their final pot. So I like to go from the rapid Rooter or a rockwool cube into a solo cup of soil, and then you'll see here I'm using the fox farm ocean Forest.  

And then once you have roots coming out of the bottom of that Solo Cup, they will be ready for transplant into their final pot. So that is when I take them out and put them into what I will be using here which  these are 2 gallon smart pots. So once you're seedling has about 5 or 6 nodes and is ready to be transplanted or is transplanted too that final pot, that is the beginning! 

Now we are on two step 6 for this grow guide, and that's going to be the vegetation stage. So again temperature is going to be around 75 degrees Fahrenheit during this stage, and then humidity wants you were at this point is going to be around 65%. You don't need to be as high as during the seedling stage, so it will come down a little bit. Some important stuff for the vegetation stage, you are going to want to have the light a little bit closer then it was during the seedling stage now that your plants are further along and are getting bigger.  

You will also want to continue with the daily misting and you're going to want to be  watering with nutrients about every fourth watering if you are growing in soil. And that is really important just because you don't want to burn the plants with too much nutrients. Now the vegetation stage is also went all sorts of training happens, so for those of you have heard already, there is topping, FIMing,  as well as low stress training high stress training, and other techniques. So now you will see some examples of low stress training which I've been using on these plants here. 

And this is the NukeHeads grow, which I was showing you guys earlier just a little ways back before the flowering period. This is the stage where if you are wanting to do different types of training, this is when you want to do it! 

Now finally for the vegetation stage, and another key important part about it is you want to do a lot of defoliation. Especially if you are growing photoperiod plants.  And you will see as they start to grow larger they will get really bushy with lots of fan leaves that will cover up lower Bud sites as well as lower tops that could grow up through the canopy. But because those large fan leaves are covering them up, they are unable to do so.  

So the foliation helps a lot because you were going to remove those leaves and open up the canopy to allow light to penetrate through. And so that those tops can grow up big and strong like the rest. It seems kind of  counterproductive. But you will see especially once you're in the flowering stage, it will actually help with increasing the size of those buds tremendously. 

So now we are back for step 7 of the grow guide, and that is the flowering phase of this overall grow. So some important things, first off this is when I like to stop the misting process. Some people do missed a few weeks in, but I stopped immediately once flower starts. And that is just to prevent any issues with mold on the buds or any damaging to the buds themselves. Another thing that is important, as you want to change the conditions in your grow tent as  in flower they do prefer a somewhat different climate.  

So you want to lower the temperature by a few degrees and humidity most likely you want to lower about 5 to 10% as that is going to help during the flowering process. And it is going to help get you guys bigger yields because your plans are going to be much happier during that stage. 

So that also brings me back to my next point, so during the vegetation stage there is kind of some wiggle room and some leniency with the plants and how you grow them in terms of If you damage them or if you stretch them out a little bit during the vegetative stage that is somewhat okay because you can always bring them back and let them recover. Because with a Photoperiod grow, the plants can grow as long as they want in vegetation as long as they have 18 hours of light each day. So let's say you stress the plant out with a little bit of nutrient burn or too much light, you can give it some extra weeks just to let it recover. And then that way when you go into a flower, they are not stressed and will continue to give you good yields as well as good quality buds. 

But if you do stress the plants out during the flowering phase it is a different story because you can't really go back and reverse the damage that has been done to the buds. It's kind of once they start you can't really revert any damage that is done to them. So really important to keep everything including the conditions on point during this phase. Now another thing people like to do and they also use this during the vegetation stage, is increasing CO2 levels with either a CO2 system or you can use something like exhale bags that you just hang in the tent. 

So increasing the CO2 levels allows the plants to absorb more light and energy from the lights so that they can grow bigger and larger buds. So you will also notice That during the flowering stage you will need to change that lighting schedule from 18 hours on and 6 hours off to 12:12. And the reason being is if it is photoperiod plant, they will not flower until you flip them into that shorter period Of light.  

And now the reason for this is out in nature the plants in normally flowered during the winter months. So once the days start getting shorter and there is less and less light, that kind of triggers the flowering phase and therefore it the reason for giving them 12 hours of darkness and 12 hours of light each day.  Now with autoflowers it is a little bit of a different story because they need 18 hours plus each day for the entire grow. 

Next on the list is Step eight which is preparing for Harvest as well as flushing the plants. Now you want to know when to harvest the plants at the perfect time, and the way to do that is by checking on the trichomes with a trichome scope. So you will look at them to determine if they are milky with enough Amber, and at that point is when you want to begin your flushing process. Now the idea of flushing is to get out all of those nutrients and salts that may have  built up as well as minerals, within your plants from the nutrient feedings and just from being in the soil and growing.  

So flushing them out with a flushing agent and then about 2 weeks of plain water is going to be really good because it's going to flush all of those salts out. And it will give you a much smoother smoke, as well as a healthier and better tasting smoke. So you are not going to you have any of those nutrients in there when you are smoking, which obviously isn't the most healthy thing to smoke, and also it isn't going to taste very well. A good way to tell if you are smoking bud that has been properly flushed, is by looking at the color of the ash. Now after you have completely finished smoking the bud, if the Ash has turned white, that means it was properly flushed. 

Now if it is black or a different color that means it was not properly flush and still have some stuff left behind in the bud. So once you have determined that the trichomes are at the right color or the right development that you want them, you will begin your flush and then after that two-week period, I recommend giving the plants a duration of 36 hours of darkness. And that just kind of helps them, put them in a little bit of shock that causes them to push out extra resin and THC into those buds and trichomes. So really good little trick to do at the end of your grow, and a lot of people do it for 36 hours, you can do it for up to 48 hours and some people even do it a little shorter for 24 hours. But I have found that 36 seems to be the best duration to do that for. 

So once you are completed with that 2-week flush, then you are ready to start step 9 of the process for growing weed, which is of course the harvesting process. So that is going to begin after that period of Darkness you are going to chop down the main branches and colas. And you are going to pluck off all of those fan leaves so that all is left is the main branch with the buds on it and then the sugar at least for you to trim up. Once you have that process done you want to use your Fiskar trimmers to trim up the sugar leaves until they look nice and clean. 

And so the buds are looking pretty and don't have a bunch of leaves sticking off of them. Now it is a good idea to collect those sugar leaves because you can use them later and process them into certain extracts.  And you can see here a good example of a branch that I was trimming up from start to finish. Another thing that is cool about the harvesting process, is on your Fisker trimmers, you will notice I'm sticky resin building up on them throughout the trimming process. And what that is is something called scissor hash.  You will see that after a little bit you can actually scrape it off with a razor and that is actually usable immediately.  

You don't have to cure it or anything like that and it is great to put on top of a bowl to supercharge it or something like that. Now it's basically a bunch of trichomes out of been pressed together into hash, so you are just going to be able to smoke that right then and there. So it is a pretty cool little treat to have during your harvesting process. 

Once you have finished harvesting the product and it is all trimmed up you are ready for the drying process, which is Step 10 on GreenBox Grown official step-by-step guide. Now the drying and curing process is really important so you don't want to mess around with this, as it is about I would say 40 to 50% of the overall result and quality for your bud. You are going to want to hang the buds upside down by string or something gentle that is not going to cut into the branches, you'll want to make sure that they are in a dark environment that is relatively cool and about medium humidity. So around 65% humidity and around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and completely dark is going to be a good environment for these buds to dry in.  

You do not want to have a fan blowing directly on them or anything that is going to speed up the drying process because that will actually lower the quality results. So after about 5 to 7 days you will want to be testing the branches by bending them, and if they snapped and make kind of a cracking sound that is how you were going to know that they are ready for going into the jars for the curing process.   

If the branch just folds over and doesn't make a sound, then it is too moist and needs to be hung up again to continue drying before you put it in the jars to cure. Now for those popcorn Buds and smaller nugs that aren't on bigger branches to be hung up, you can use a net for putting them on that, and that will actually drive in a little faster so just  keep an eye on that as it usually takes a couple of days for them to try on the dry rack That you hang up. 

At this point you are ready for Step 11 which is the curing process and starts right after the plants are starting to snap on the branch from the drying process. So what you are going to do is Click them off of that main branch and then put them into a mason jar for curing. And I like to use humidity packs, the 62% 8 gram ones are great 4 quart sized mason jars. And essentially those just  maintain the ideal humidity and curing conditions in the jar so the bugs don't dry out or get too moist.  

While in the jars you are going to want to burp them for a little bit each day for the first couple weeks, and then for long-term storage after that, all you are going to need to do is birth them once for about 10 to 15 minutes per week And you will be good to go. It is a good idea to store them in a dark place though when you are not using them. So be sure to put them in a closet or a dresser drawer or something like that, and also make sure it is kind of a cool location, not too hot because that will degrade the buds over time. 

All right last but not least, we are here for the final step of the grow guide and that is of course the clean up and prep for the next grow process. So it is really important that if you want to continue growing in that same space, that you clean all of the tools and appliances you used as well as the grow tent, just be sure to vacuum it up and wipe it down so that there aren't any past or dirty things left behind. Because that can actually cause problems with your next grow if there is some sort of residue from something like a pest or a disease left behind. So it is a really good idea to clean everything very thoroughly and what is also really cool is a lot of these supplies like the pots and such are going to be reusable, so if you take good care of them by cleaning them up after every row, they will last a lot longer as well. 

All right folks so that concludes today's video which was the official GreenBox Grown 12 step guide on how to grow top quality cannabis from the comfort of your home! Again following this guide will help get you top quality results even if you have zero experience whatsoever with growing cannabis. I want to again remind you guys that if you are looking for more detailed step-by-step guidance, you can sign up for our premium Grow video library, which starts at $14.99 a month.  

And if you decide to sign up for those videos today, you will get a two-week free trial where you will have access to the entire premium Content Library free of charge. So be sure to sign up so you can try that out and see if he's videos work well with you. Not before I go, I hope you guys enjoyed today's video and I want to thank you for watching as always, and until next time… 



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